Title: Hallicrafters S38 Restoration - Part 1

Description: In this Retro-Tronics howto, we perform a detailed restoration of a Hallicrafters S-38. Here in part 1 we carefully dismantle, clean, and inspect the radio.

---

Step 1. Hallicrafters S-38
Click Image to Enlarge	A nice candidate for restoration.
Step 2.
Click Image to Enlarge
Step 3. S-38 Back View
Click Image to Enlarge	This one, like many, is missing the back. Fortunately we have some of those. When I acquired this radio, some time ago, I cut the cord off as I do with most radios when I buy them. I don't want anyone tempted to plug it in until it has been restored.
Step 4. Bottom View
Click Image to Enlarge
Step 5. Remove Screws Holding The Bottom Cover On
Click Image to Enlarge	This particular S-38 has a metal bottom. Some have fiber board bottoms.
Step 6. Keep all the parts safe while working on the project
Click Image to Enlarge	If you are taking out many parts, use multiple containers or an egg carton to help keep everything straight.
Step 7. This is where all the work needs to be done
Click Image to Enlarge	Sometimes we find the leavings of a critter in these things. Not this time. This one is nice and clean inside.
Step 8.
Click Image to Enlarge	Notice the waxy mess on the bottom cover. It looks like something melted somewhere along the line. Also note the alignment access holes are still covered. This is typical - nobody wants to break that factory paper (see photo two above). I suspect most just removed the bottom cover to do their alignment.
Step 9. It looks like something got hot
Click Image to Enlarge	Maybe the cause of our waxy mess. We will want to replace this and all of the paper capacitors in this unit.
Step 10. All of the knobs have lock screws
Click Image to Enlarge	Be very careful to use the correct size hex wrench to unlock the knobs. Of course they all need to come off to remove the chassis from the case.
Step 11. Remove the knobs
Click Image to Enlarge
Step 12. Carefully loosen the set screws
Click Image to Enlarge	You cannot get these knobs off without the right tool! Once I got that, these Hallicrafters knobs became my favorites because they are almost always easy to remove (though usually very tight). These were very high quality, even on the S-38. The pressure fit knobs on most consumer radios can sometimes be much more difficult to remove.
Step 13. They all have set screws
Click Image to Enlarge
Step 14. Unscrew the standby switch
Click Image to Enlarge	There are yet four more screws holding the chassis to the cabinet. Two shown here holding the Receive/Standby switch.
Step 15. Two more front panel screws
Click Image to Enlarge
Step 16. Almost Done
Click Image to Enlarge
Step 17. Chassis mounting screws
Click Image to Enlarge
Step 18. Chassis mounting screws
Click Image to Enlarge	These are held on with a nut.
Step 19. Chassis mounting screws
Click Image to Enlarge
Step 20. Its a little dusty
Click Image to Enlarge	But thats OK. Don't yank it all the way out, we still need to disconnect the speaker.
Step 21. The speaker connector
Click Image to Enlarge	It can be a little difficult to disconnect because the tubes are in the way so now is a good time to pull them. Be sure you know which tube is which - they should be marked but these marks often come off.
Step 22. The tubes
Click Image to Enlarge	After verifying that the tubes were nicely marked, I removed them for cleaning and so that I can more easily get to the speaker connector.
Step 23. Now I have easy access to the connector.
Click Image to Enlarge
Step 24. Cerfully disconnect the speaker
Click Image to Enlarge	The pliers worked well for me but a small flat head screwdriver would work fine as well. Just be patient with it.
Step 25. Now it is finally freed from its case
Click Image to Enlarge
Step 26. And it is a beautiful chassis, even covered in dust
Click Image to Enlarge
Step 27. Everything so far
Click Image to Enlarge	Except for the case.
Step 28. Chassis Dusting Tools
Click Image to Enlarge
Step 29. We can give the case a good clening as well
Click Image to Enlarge	Hmmm... The case also needs some cleaning... But first we need to get the speaker out.
Step 30. Four screws hold the speaker on
Click Image to Enlarge
Step 31. Inside the case
Click Image to Enlarge	Speaker and dial cover remain in the case.
Step 32. The dial cover is held in place with tape
Click Image to Enlarge
Step 33. Remove the speaker
Click Image to Enlarge
Step 34. There's some more dust!
Click Image to Enlarge
Step 35. Speaker and Bezel
Click Image to Enlarge
Step 36. What is that thing?
Click Image to Enlarge	Unfortunately, I have not yet mastered the art of removing the logo (It is not held on with a nut, it uses a friction based device) which also holds on the dial cover. So, the dial cover stays on for cleaning. It just happens to be in good shape anyway.
Step 37. The speaker cleaned up.
Click Image to Enlarge
Step 38. The chassis cleaned up
Click Image to Enlarge	I moved to the garage for dusting. I used these brushes and a smaller, stiffer brush to get in the corners. I also use a small compressor with a nipped ball pump needle to gently blow out tight spots. Be sure to carefully brush through the tuning capacitor plates.
Step 39. For dusting tight spots
Click Image to Enlarge	Small compressor with a ball pump needle can get into tight spots. You'll need to nip off the end of the end of the pump needle. Canned air has more power but this is cheaper.
Step 40. Cleaning the knobs
Click Image to Enlarge	Don't forget to remove the other hardware before giving the knobs a bath. I use a little bit of dish soap and let them soak for a few hours. Then use a toothbrush to get between the ridges on the knobs. The metal trim rings may get a bit of metal polish.
Step 41. Be very careful with dial markings
Click Image to Enlarge	These S-38 dial markings seem to be in good shape and well stuck to the metal but, here and always, be very careful with dial markings (especially on glass). In this case, I will gently dust the painted metal dial with a dry terry cloth. In some cases, even a light dusting will destroy the markings. Always proceed with caution - leave them alone if you have any dobuts.
Step 42. A cleaner dial
Click Image to Enlarge
Step 43. The case gets its bath.
Click Image to Enlarge	Just a little soap and water.
Step 44. My dring rack
Click Image to Enlarge
Step 45. The knobs were separted from the other hardware for thier bath
Click Image to Enlarge
Step 46. Not spotless but not bad
Click Image to Enlarge	At this point, you can live with a few spots or go to much more work to get the chassis spotless (something I rarely but sometimes do). I elect to live with a few spots this time.
Step 47. It is important to inspect the isolation hardware
Click Image to Enlarge	There are four rubber isolation units which insulate the chassis from the metal cabinet. It is imperative that these be inspected and replaced if necessary. These radios should be operated only with the use of an isolation transformer. A small mistake could result in a hot AC mains power connected directly to the cabinet - a disaster waiting to happen. It is safest to use this radio with either GFI protection or through the use of an isolation transformer.
Step 48. Instpect and replace, if necessary, all of the isloation hardwar
Click Image to Enlarge	There are four rubber isolation units which insulate the chassis from the metal cabinet. It is imperative that these be inspected and replaced if necessary. These radios should be operated only with the use of an isolation transformer. A small mistake could result in a hot AC mains power connected directly to the cabinet - a disaster waiting to happen. It is safest to use this radio with either GFI protection or through the use of an isolation transformer.
Step 49. More rubber isolation hardware (back one on each side)
Click Image to Enlarge	There are four rubber isolation units which insulate the chassis from the metal cabinet. It is imperative that these be inspected and replaced if necessary. These radios should be operated only with the use of an isolation transformer. A small mistake could result in a hot AC mains power connected directly to the cabinet - a disaster waiting to happen. It is safest to use this radio with either GFI protection or through the use of an isolation transformer.
Step 50. A high definition view of the guts.
Click Image to Enlarge	Click the image to view it in higher definition.
Step 52. Clean the tubes
Click Image to Enlarge	Warning: You may clean off the tube markings . If you care about that, be very careful. I have cleaned dozens of tubes this way (i.e. rag and orange based cleaning flid). It normally does not affect the markings but sometimes they can fade or completely wash off. Just make sure you keep track of which tube is which and mark with a sharpie if necessary. Make them sparkle!
Step 53. Nice clean tubes
Click Image to Enlarge	My favorite part of any chassis is how nice it looks from the top with nice clean (glass) tubes. Every one of these cleaned up nicely using the orange cleaner and a rag. All the tube markings are still there. Even the metal tubes look better clean.
Step 54. Be sure the bulb socket is clean
Click Image to Enlarge
Step 55. Cleaning the bulb socket
Click Image to Enlarge	With a little bit of emery cloth. Check the bottom contact as well - I normally scrape it off with a small screw driver.
Step 56. Check and clean the bulb as well
Click Image to Enlarge	Put a meter on the bulb and check for continuity (a few ohms of resistance is normal).
Step 57. Now its time to clean the contacts
Click Image to Enlarge	The time to do it is now, not after you have done any electrical work (I like to give it a good long time to dry out).
Step 58. Clean all the switches
Click Image to Enlarge	A brief squirt on each switch, then work them through their positions many times.
Step 59. Cleaning the tube sockets
Click Image to Enlarge	This is nothing short of a big pain. Do not shoot every socket hole with your cleaner - instead, soak up some of your cleaner with a rag and wipe the tube pins with it. Then work the tube in and out of the socket a few times. That will do just fine, uses less cleaner, and makes less mess.
Step 61. Cleaning the volume pot
Click Image to Enlarge	Sometimes these pots are so well sealed that I have had to drill holes in them to clean them. This one is more typical and has a nice gap where I can shoot it. Somthing doesn't feel right about this potentiometer, I need to test it (later).
Step 62. Clean all positions of the band switch
Click Image to Enlarge
Step 63. Inspect the wiring
Click Image to Enlarge	Here is an example of what we are looking for. Hopefully there isn't much more like this - it can mean lots more work. That multi-section cap had to go anyway.

To be continued...

---

Related Links:

S38 Cover Kit from Retro-Tronics

S38 Back Cover from Retro-Tronics

S38 Bottom Cover from Retro-Tronics

The Hallicrafters page at BAMA (you can get the manual here)

---